PLUS SIZED Renaissance Dress, Elizabethan, Tudor, Italian Doublet, Costume - (Custom Made To Order) Labor Fees

$1,461.14


PLUS SIZED Renaissance Dress, Elizabethan, Tudor, Italian Doublet, Costume, Bridal Gown - LAY AWAY AVAILABLE

Ships to: UK, Canada. Please provide your postal code and I will estimate shipping.

Made to Order: Elizabethan noble women's Italian Doublet gown - custom drafted. Price listed is for labor fees.

DESCRIPTION: Each gown is a one-of-a-kind custom-made couture gown and cannot be duplicated exactly as shown. I will use this piece as inspiration to create a similar gown with your own choice of fabrics and trims. Listing Includes: Custom drafted Italian doublet with pleated medici collar and hand-made piping, shoulder wings, custom embroidered or spiral trimmed detachable one-piece fitted sleeves, hand drafted doublet tabs, split front skirt with cartridge pleats (hand pleated), custom embroidered or embellished forepanel (underskirt).

Fabrics and notions are supplied by client and not included in the list price, so choose your color combination. I will consult with client on appropriate fabrics and guide you to vetted vendors and supply the yardage amounts.

**Non-refundable 40% deposit is required to hold a spot on my calendar. - Please check my availability before ordering. My calendar is often filled out a year in advance so there will be a delay even for gowns paid in full. ALLOW THREE MONTHS FOR DELIVERY.

ADDITIONAL:

*Handkerchief weight linen Maria di Medici Chemise is not included but available here in my store: https://www.etsy.com/listing/289134117/italian-renaissance-authentic-maria-de?ref=shop_home_active_4

Beading & Pearling Fees: Glass beads and authentic freshwater pearls fetch a fee of $50 per strand to apply. This

Gown pictured took 8 strands and took over 80+ hours to hand sew beads and pearls. Beading/pearling fees for each gown is dependent upon the embroidery or trims chosen. AVERAGE gown uses 5 strands and fetches labor fees of approximately $250. YOUR FEES WILL BE DETERMINED BY THE NUMBER OF STRANDS OF PEARLS USED. Please be advised, these fees are non-negotiable. The average fee of $250 for 80 hours of labor breaks down to approximately $3.13 an hour and is a HUGE discount that plunges far beneath the minimum hourly wage of $10 to $15 an hour in the USA! Beading fees, if estimated using the current minimum wage of $10 an hour, would normally fetch a fee of $800, which is nearly the entire cost to construct the gown. Therefore, labor fees for beading and pearling are firm and non-negotiable and will be added to your final billing statement.

APPROX YARDAGE PROVIDED BY CLIENT:
7 yards Silk 58 inches wide (Skirt)
2 yards silk 58 inches wide (Bodice & Upper Sleeve)
2 yards Silk (Lower Sleeve)
1.5 yards Hand made Piping
2 yards Silk (Forepart)
2 yards Cotton Lining (bodice)
2 yards Medium Weight Cotton (Forepart Side panels)
2 yards Silk Velvet or Light Weight Velveteen (Hem guards)
10 to 20 yards Decorative Trims (price depends on type chosen and amount needed)

COST BREAKDOWN:

ADDITIONAL SPECIALIZED NOTIONS SUPPLIED BY DFT (Added to final Statement)
1.5 yards Fusible Batiste Linen (bodice interfacing) ($8)
1/2 yard Pellon 72 wt (Bodice Stomacher Stiffener) ($6)
2 yards Fusible Batiste Linen (forepart stabilizer) ($12)
2 yards quilt batting (forepart) ($8)
1 spool clear beading thread ($3)
1.5 yards Linen - Sleeve lining (14.92)
10 to 12 yards 3 inch grosgrain (cartridge pleat stabilizer) ($12)
6 Lightweight Metal Stays ($12)
3 yards Rigilene Boning Channels ($9)
5 Strands Freshwater Pearls ($60) (Beading fees are $50 per strand)
24 Grommets ($10)
4 skeins Matching Embroidery Floss (To couch grommets) (1.11)
1 spool Embroidery Thread ($6)
2 Spools Cotton/poly blend sewing thread ($4)
4 Large Hooks & Eye (Skirt) ($4)
15 yards Ivory & Gold Ecru Trim ($38
_______________________________________
208.00

Specialized Supplies: $148.00 plus tax .88.8% = $161.14
Embroidery or Trim Embellishment Labor: $160
Labor & Drafting fees (65 pcs) - $830
Freshwater Pearls: $60
Beading Fees: Regularly $250
______________________

$1,461.14 Labor & Specialized Notions

QUALITY STANDARDS: Each Designs From Time ensemble is created to meet my exacting standards, and I am a perfectionist! All my bodices - whether working class or noble - are CUSTOM DRAFTED to fit each individual client. That service alone is a value of $150 for time and materials My bodices are not cookie-cut patterns, nor do I approach my designs with a "one size fits most" concept using a commercial pattern source that you HOPE will fit. Rather than trying to make your body fit into a commercial pattern, I take the time and added effort to custom drape and draft a pattern to fit YOUR unique body. You may find reproduction clothing that is cheaper, but a bargain isn't a bargain if what you're buying is substandard workmanship. My designs are clothing NOT costume. My bodices are among the sturdiest your money can buy. They aren't two pieces of fabric slapped together with grommets that will tear away from the fabric after being worn a few times. I have developed a unique, tried and true method of anchoring my grommets so that they will NOT tear away from your fabrics. In addition, each grommet is also hand-couched using matching embroidery floss that is sealed to prevent fraying and will wear longer. All of my skirts are hemmed by HAND - they are not hemmed by the sewing machine! That, I feel, is a lazy cheat! There are many Couture (hand sewn) features in all of my work. It may take more time, but I take great pride in each piece I make. The quality you see pictured is the quality that you receive. I have one of the best reputations for quality and customer service in the industry. And I stand by my work.

Available in the following sizes INCLUDING PLUS SIZES 3X:

USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .UK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . France
2 (X-Small). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
4 (X-Small/Small) . . . . . . . . . . 6. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
6 (Small). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
8 (Medium). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
10 (Medium). . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
12 (Large). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
14 (Large-X-Large). . . . . . . . . .16. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
16 (X-Large/1X) . . . . . . . . . . . .18. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
18 (1X/2X). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48/50
20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50/52
22
24 (1X)
26 (2X)
28 (3X)


PLEASE READ! I take (and fill) orders for Frock Coats, Gowns, and Men's Ensembles on a First Come, First Served basis, no matter if paid in full at the time of purchase and regardless of the 9 to 10 week timeline listed for turn-around. Etsy does not provide the 3 - 4 month option that I require for construction.

I am very often booked out 6 to 8 months at a time. Please contact me to check my availability. To be added to my schedule, I require a 40% deposit to hold a spot open. You can visit my website and check my Waiting List Schedule for my next available date. But, my calendar fills up quickly!

Contact me for more details.

*** SHIPPING FEES LISTED ARE APPROXIMATED AND MAY VARY DEPENDING ON WEIGHT AND DISTANCE. AN ADDITIONAL INVOICE WILL BE SENT UPON COMPLETION OF GOWN.

ORDERS ARE FILLED ON A FIRST-COME, FIRST SERVED BASIS. Please be advised that there may be orders ahead of you. Please contact me to check with my availability; especially if you are hoping for your headdress to arrive by a specific date.

** Hand-made items will have slight imperfections.

** No returns or refunds.

CANCELLATION POLICIES: 99% of my clients are a dream to work with; however, there is always that ONE client out of 100 that makes you question why you are in the retail business. PLEASE understand that the item you purchased is CUSTOM, and HAND MADE to your exact measurement specifications. You will need to have a tape measure at your disposal, or the ability to have your measurements taken. If you have made a purchase in my store, I am operating under the assumption that you have READ the entire description and made note that you need to contact me about MY availability prior to your purchase. If you have not done so, and you are informed that the item will not arrive before your event due to my current workload, this is not considered grounds for cancellation. Therefore, PLEASE consider your purchase carefully before making a commitment. I do not accept cancellations after a 12 hour period, and reserve the right to refuse future service to anyone who abuses my cancellation policies. This is not selective, nor an effort to be purposefully punitive, but is simply a measure to weed out those rare clients among the 1% that buy on impulse and then cancel; OR, dispute the charge to PayPal as a fraudulent purchase in order to have their money returned because they found someone to loan them a similar item, found something cheaper, or become belligerent and demand their order be canceled because they are required to supply their dress size and measurements. (Yes - All of these are actual scenarios!) I am always available to answer any and all questions and I welcome the interaction, but please be considerate that in doing so takes away from current orders in production. When an order is canceled I have usually invested at a minimum of half a days wages, often more, due to the time I offer in consultation. Please present any questions regarding taking your measurements - which will be necessary for ALL items in my store, sizing, or shipping and delivery times, BEFORE ordering. Please be aware that should you cancel your order, there is a restocking fee of $10. If supplies have been ordered or purchased, the cost of all supplies will be deducted from your reimbursement whether or not they might possibly be used in the future for another client. Also, those who cancel after the 12 hour period, and are using my Lay Away program, will lose their 40% deposit. Because my schedule stays booked out often a year in advance, a reservation is necessary. Your deposit is a commitment that I will not accept any other orders for that time slot. I turn away commissions regularly due to my full schedule. When/If you cancel at any time in the interim between your deposit date and the date construction is to begin, I am essentially losing customers/commissions that could have been booked in that time slot. This is the reason I ask for a non-refundable deposit. It is unfortunate that these policies have become necessary, but are the result of abuses perpetrated by the 1%. I SINCERELY THANK YOU FOR YOUR UNDERSTANDING AND COOPERATION.

Shipping from United States

Processing time

Please contact me to find out when this item will be ready to ship.

Estimated shipping times

  • North America : 7 - 10 business days

I'll do my best to meet these shipping estimates, but can't guarantee them. Actual delivery time will depend on the shipping method you choose.

Customs and import taxes

Buyers are responsible for any customs and import taxes that may apply. I'm not responsible for delays due to customs.

Payment Options

Secure options
  • Accepts Etsy gift cards

Returns & Exchanges

I don't accept returns, exchanges, or cancellations

But please contact me if you have any problems with your order.

Frequently Asked Questions

Custom and personalized orders

ALL of our GOWNS and accessories are one-of-a-kind couture, and custom drafted to fit your personal measures! Most vendors on Etsy offer pieces in multiples; however, we do not repeat the same gowns over and over. Rather, we will take a style you like and customize it for your personal tastes. All of the samples you see listed in our store can be personalized. You dream it; we'll create it!

How does the Layaway option work?

With a 20% non-refundable deposit, you can reserve a slot on our calendar. The remaining balance can be parceled out into six (6) automated monthly payments via PayPal. We've lowered our deposit from 40% to 20% to make it more affordable for our clients. Details are included in a contract for your protection.

What's your lead time for commissions?

We are blessed to stay busy! Our calendar is filled at least 8 to 10 months - or more - in advance. It's best to give us NO LESS than 6 months advance notice, but optimally longer! - especially for bridal gowns and highly detailed ensembles. Depending on the intricacy of your gown commission it can take up to 12 to 14 weeks just for construction. Because our pieces are highly detailed with custom embroidered fabrics and beading, we need every second! We squeeze accessories and corsets into our gown commission schedule and usually need no less than 3 months advance. It is best to inquire before ordering. We will make every effort possible to assist in your deadline.

Do you ship outside the USA?

We will ship outside the USA - However, because our clothing is customized there will be added shipping expenses. We work off a "body cast" created from Painters Tape and Cellophane wrap which must be created in your era appropriate corset (for women). This cast is shipped to us at the customer's expense. Any customs fees or taxes are the responsibility of the client, as well as any insurance.

I love this gown! - - How much is it?

All of our gowns are priced in the listing. The listing you see is for the labor involved to create the SAMPLE pictured. Unless specified in the listing details (please make sure you read them) all listings are priced for LABOR ONLY. Fashion fabrics are provided by the client. We offer a cost breakdown in most of our listings. It is worth noting that our gowns are of the highest quality, worth three times the amount shown, if we were to price them at an hourly wage. We make every effort to work within your budget, but many times we are earning less than $7.50 an HOUR! The average seamstress asks $20 per hour. We are passionate about costuming and want to share our talent with as many clients as possible, but our prices stand as is.

Do you take commissions for 18th and 19th Century as well?

YES! YES! YES! We are well versed in the construction and fitting for other eras, namely 18th Century! Our niche has been 16th Century, but we ABSOLUTELY can create men's and women's ensembles for other eras, to include 1940s Vintage. In fact, we appreciate the divergence as we stay so booked in the 16th Century we don't' have the opportunity to "play" with samples.

Added Value Service for BRIDES!

We have carved out a niche for highly detailed, custom fit/drafted bridal gowns (historical themed). Because this gown is the highlight of your wedding and there are too many HORROR STORIES we hear from our clients who have used other, less reputable (but cheaper) vendors here on Etsy, we offer live, personal fittings anywhere in the United States or Canada. If you wish to avail yourself of this service, we will attach the cost of our flight and hotel to come to YOU! No more guess work. No more disappointments or risk of ordering your gown on line. We will shop for the best flight prices - flying coach - to help keep your costs at a minimum.

I ordered a gown with another vendor and was SO disappointed!

It sickens us, but even among those who are viewed as scions in the historical costume community have, unfortunately, been less than honest in their commissions: i.e., accepting a client's money and fabrics, only to ghost on them, or failure to meet your deadline. Unfortunately, this happens all too often. At Designs From Time, we have built our reputation on Customer Service, Excellent Communication, Quality Construction, and INTEGRITY. We invite you to seek references from our past clients! There is absolutely NO EXCUSE for these disreputable vendors. NONE. We WILL NOT take your commission (and money) unless we can GUARANTEE delivery by your needed deadline. We would rather lose a commission than risk your disappointment.

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