!!For Elizabethan Court Gowns, 18th Century Gowns, & Victorian fashions: You will need a properly constructed corset to make your duct tape double!!
Read ALL of the following before watching the tutorial and beginning to tape.
Duct Tape Bodice CAST:
Supplies You'll Need:
Prepping for the Tape:
Once you've watched the tutorial it's time to start taping!
Time to Tape! - Read and Follow along carefully!
Follow the basic instructions above - but you will need to tape your full torso and your neck. Do this VERY carefully! Don't make it tight! Just tear off small strips and tape up the neck. Don't use long strips and pull them tight or you can cut off blood flow.
MARKING WITH A SHARPIE:
LADIES: Now that you're all taped up it's time to start marking where your neckline is to begin, and where your bodice should hit your natural waist.
MEN: You will need to mark your natural waist on the sides, the back, and to the navel, as well as your armhole, and front opening.
IGNORE the comment made in the video about leaving more space under the armpit. THIS IS INACCURATE!!! If you leave too much arm hole depth your bodice/doublet will hike up every time you lift your arms. Follow MY instructions below:
Now, Cut yourself out!
Now, you will send me your duct tape bodice or doublet form to me and I
will use it to draft a pattern and construct a muslin mock up.
Now, you will need to take your measurements.
You will need the following:
Working Class: If you have a bodice that fits you well, lace yourself up in it until it is comfortable and take your measurements wearing your old bodice.
Nobles: You will need to be wearing your corset and have your bumroll and farthingale handy as well.
LADIES: Measurements *Nobles - Must Be Wearing Your Corset and farthingale:
Bust (Ribcage) Circumference
Waist to Knee
Waist to Crotch
Above the Knee Circumference
Nape of Neck to Natural waist (see picture to right)
Sleeve Length - Shoulder to wrist with bent elbow
Elbow to Wrist Length
Arm Pit to Waist
Back Length (See picture to the right)
LADIES & MEN:
2. Taken With Ruler:
Full Shoulder Width:
Shoulder to Shoulder (See picture below)
Half Shoulder Width:
TAKE THE FOLLOWING MEASUREMENTS WEARING YOUR BUMROLL:
Bust (at the widest point) minus two inches for standard busts, four for large (this is the ‘squish' factor and is variable)
Waist (ditto, or the narrowest point, depending on how you are built) but do not subtract anything here.
Back length (the whole thing from base of the neck to the waist)
Strap length (from spine/waist intersection in back up over the shoulder to pit area in front where the strap will join the front of your corset. Add two inches for lacing)
Bust point -- how far up from the spine/waist intersection the widest point of your bust lives at. Depending on your body, it could be at the pit level or slightly above or below it.
Front length -- from your belly button up to about how high you want the front of the corset. French corsets are low-cut; English corsets tend to be higher.
Muslin Mock-Up Fitting:
Once I construct your muslin mock up, I will send it to you to be fitted - Unless you live close enough to me to come to my studio. Written instructions will be sent along with your mock up. Follow the instructions carefully and precisely!
It is important that you find a Professional Seamstress or Tailor to do your fitting.
PLEASE, do not take your mock up to an amateur, i.e., your neighbor, your mother, grandmother, aunt, best friend, or a friend of a friend, UNLESS they are a professional or have more than a basic knowledge and experience in proper fitting.
This mock-up is the pattern for your bodice. If it is not properly fitted, your finished ensemble will NOT fit when it arrives and may require extensive alterations - which are not included in the quoted labor fees. If I cannot do a live fitting on you, I must rely solely on the muslin mock up and your measurements. If either are inaccurate, I cannot be held liable for an ill-fitted garment. Should you need alterations due to an inaccurately fitted muslin mock-up or inaccurate measurements, there will be additional labor fees of $15 an hour plus additional shipping fees for which you will be responsible. (Please read my Policies and Procedures).
Designs From Time
Now, lay your non-dominant hand and press it flat under your armpit of your dominant side with your thumb UP and your forefinger touching your arm pit crease. Cup your hand slightly. - - See picture to the left.
The natural curve of the web between your thumb and fingers lays around the tendon. The Tank top in the picture sits a little bit too far over. If you trace that line your sleeve may be too restricting. Trace your line between the edge of the thumb web and where the tank top rests in this picture. The basic point here is to follow the contour of that tendon. Mark a small but visible X or a DOT in the center or curve of the L shape created by the web of your hand. I can draft the correct shape.