Renaissance Dress, Elizabethan Costume, Italian Doublet, Bridal Gown - (Made To Order) LABOR FEES

$1,461.14

Renaissance Dress, Elizabethan, Tudor, Italian Doublet, Costume, Bridal Gown - LAY AWAY AVAILABLE

Made to Order: Elizabethan noble women's Italian Doublet gown - custom drafted. Price listed is for labor fees.

DESCRIPTION: Each gown is a one-of-a-kind custom-made couture gown and cannot be duplicated exactly as shown. I will use this piece as inspiration to create a similar gown with your own choice of fabrics and trims. Listing Includes: Custom drafted Italian doublet with pleated medici collar and hand-made piping, shoulder wings, custom embroidered or spiral trimmed detachable one-piece fitted sleeves, hand drafted doublet tabs, split front skirt with cartridge pleats (hand pleated), custom embroidered or embellished forepanel (underskirt).

Fabrics and notions are supplied by client and not included in the list price, so choose your color combination. I will consult with client on appropriate fabrics and guide you to vetted vendors and supply the yardage amounts.

**Non-refundable 20% deposit is required to hold a spot on my calendar. - Please check my availability before ordering. My calendar is often filled out a year in advance so there will be a delay even for gowns paid in full.

ADDITIONAL:

*Handkerchief weight linen Maria di Medici Chemise is not included but available here in my store: https://www.etsy.com/listing/289134117/italian-renaissance-authentic-maria-de?ref=shop_home_active_4

Beading & Pearling Fees: Glass beads and authentic freshwater pearls fetch a fee of $50 per strand to apply. This

Gown pictured took 8 strands and took over 80+ hours to hand sew beads and pearls. Beading/pearling fees for each gown is dependent upon the embroidery or trims chosen. AVERAGE gown uses 5 strands and fetches labor fees of approximately $250. YOUR FEES WILL BE DETERMINED BY THE NUMBER OF STRANDS OF PEARLS USED. Please be advised, these fees are non-negotiable. The average fee of $250 for 80 hours of labor breaks down to approximately $3.13 an hour and is a HUGE discount that plunges far beneath the minimum hourly wage of $10 to $15 an hour in the USA! Beading fees, if estimated using the current minimum wage of $10 an hour, would normally fetch a fee of $800, which is nearly the entire cost to construct the gown. Therefore, labor fees for beading and pearling are firm and non-negotiable and will be added to your final billing statement.

APPROX YARDAGE PROVIDED BY CLIENT:
7 yards Silk 58 inches wide (Skirt)
2 yards silk 58 inches wide (Bodice & Upper Sleeve)
2 yards Silk (Lower Sleeve)
1.5 yards Hand made Piping
2 yards Silk (Forepart)
2 yards Cotton Lining (bodice)
2 yards Medium Weight Cotton (Forepart Side panels)
2 yards Silk Velvet or Light Weight Velveteen (Hem guards)
10 to 20 yards Decorative Trims (price depends on type chosen and amount needed)

COST BREAKDOWN:

ADDITIONAL SPECIALIZED NOTIONS SUPPLIED BY DFT (Added to final Statement)
1.5 yards Fusible Batiste Linen (bodice interfacing) ($8)
1/2 yard Pellon 72 wt (Bodice Stomacher Stiffener) ($6)
2 yards Fusible Batiste Linen (forepart stabilizer) ($12)
2 yards quilt batting (forepart) ($8)
1 spool clear beading thread ($3)
1.5 yards Linen - Sleeve lining (14.92)
10 to 12 yards 3 inch grosgrain (cartridge pleat stabilizer) ($12)
6 Lightweight Metal Stays ($12)
3 yards Rigilene Boning Channels ($9)
5 Strands Freshwater Pearls ($60) (Beading fees are $50 per strand)
24 Grommets ($10)
4 skeins Matching Embroidery Floss (To couch grommets) (1.11)
1 spool Embroidery Thread ($6)
2 Spools Cotton/poly blend sewing thread ($4)
4 Large Hooks & Eye (Skirt) ($4)
15 yards Ivory & Gold Ecru Trim ($38
_______________________________________
208.00

Specialized Supplies: $148.00 plus tax .88.8% = $161.14
Embroidery or Trim Embellishment Labor: $160
Labor & Drafting fees (65 pcs) - $830
Freshwater Pearls: $60
Beading Fees: Regularly $250
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$1,461.14 Labor & Specialized Notions

Available in the following sizes Only:

USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . UK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . France
2 (X-Small). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
4 (X-Small/Small) . . . . . . . . . . . 6. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
6 (Small). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
8 (Medium). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
10 (Medium). . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
12 (Large). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
14 (Large-X-Large). . . . . . . . . 16. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
16 (X-Large/1X) . . . . . . . . . . . 18. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
18 (1X/2X). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48/50
20 (2X) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50/52


PLEASE READ! I take (and fill) orders for Frock Coats, Gowns, and Men's Ensembles on a First Come, First Served basis, no matter if paid in full at the time of purchase and regardless of the 9 to 10 week timeline listed for turn-around. Etsy does not provide the 3 - 4 month option that I require for construction.

I am very often booked out 12 months at a time. Please contact me to check my availability. To be added to my schedule, I require a 40% deposit to hold a spot open. You can visit my website and check my Waiting List Schedule for my next available date. But, my calendar fills up quickly!

Contact me for more details.

ORDERS ARE FILLED ON A FIRST-COME, FIRST SERVED BASIS. Please be advised that there may be orders ahead of you. Please contact me to check with my availability; especially if you are hoping for your headdress to arrive by a specific date.

** Hand-made items will have slight imperfections.

** No returns or refunds.

************************

IMPLIED AGREEMENT:

~ COMMUNICATION: Buyer agrees and acknowledges by the remittance of their 20% Non-Refundable Deposit, or payment in full at the time of purchase, that ALL communication with DFT, hereafter known as Seller, must remain through Etsy in order to abide by Etsy’s policies for Sellers. Buyer further agrees that once their order has been placed with DFT, a.k.a. Seller, Buyer will maintain REGULAR contact with DFT, i.e., including but not limited to, checking their Etsy messages on a regular basis throughout the duration their commission is listed on DFT’s schedule until such time as their commission has been completed, the balance paid, and the item(s) shipped.

~ PROJECT PAUSE FEE: Buyer agrees and acknowledges by the remittance of their 20% Non-refundable deposit, or by their Payment in full at the time of purchase, that should they, Buyer, become non-responsive, i.e., fail to respond to messages on Etsy from DFT, during the time period between the date of placing their order and the date of their scheduled reservation, it shall be left to DFT’s discretion whether or not the Buyer’s project is placed on HOLD, Rescheduled, or Canceled without refunding their non-refundable deposit. Furthermore, should DFT decide to reschedule or place the project on Hold pending the receipt of their fabrics, measurements, or upper body cast, Buyer will be obligated to pay an ADDITIONAL $100 “Project Pause Fee” to Seller, to be paid in advance by Buyer prior to work re-starting on their project. In the event that Buyer has purchased their project without a non-refundable deposit, DFT will NOT reschedule unless or until ALL fabrics (if applicable) have been received, correct measurements sent, and their upper body casts have been received, and an ADDITIONAL $100 “Project Pause Fee” shall be paid in full to DFT prior to work continuing.

~ UPPER BODY CASTS/MOCK-UPS: Buyer agrees and acknowledges by the remittance of their 20% Non-refundable deposit, or their Payment in full at the time of purchase, that they are responsible for creating an upper body cast from cellophane wrap and “Painter’s Tape” (NOT DUCT TAPE), which shall meet ALL the specifications in the instructional video and the PDF handout. Buyer agrees and understands that if their cast is NOT made correctly the fit of their garment CANNOT be guaranteed, and DFT will not be held liable. Furthermore, in the event that a muslin mock-up of the garment is necessary, the Buyer MUST have someone who is knowledgeable in fitting a toile (mock-up). If the mock-up is not correctly fitted, again, DFT, a.k.a. Seller, CANNOT guarantee a correct fit of the finished garment, and shall not be held liable by the Seller.

Shipping from United States

Processing time

10 weeks

Estimated shipping times

  • North America : 7 - 10 business days

I'll do my best to meet these shipping estimates, but can't guarantee them. Actual delivery time will depend on the shipping method you choose.

Customs and import taxes

Buyers are responsible for any customs and import taxes that may apply. I'm not responsible for delays due to customs.

Payment Options

Secure options
  • Accepts Etsy gift cards

Returns & Exchanges

I don't accept returns, exchanges, or cancellations

But please contact me if you have any problems with your order.

Frequently Asked Questions

Custom and personalized orders

ALL of our GOWNS are one-of-a-kind couture, and custom drafted to fit your personal measurements! Most vendors on Etsy offer multiples, i.e., cranking out the same gown over, and over; however, we do not repeat the same gown. Rather, we will take a style you like and customize it for your personal tastes using our superior craftsmanship and knowledge for historical clothing and construction. All of the samples you see listed in our store can be personalized. Additionally, all of our accessories (hats, smocks, corsets/stays) are customized to fit your measures as well. While you may find CHEAPER versions of gowns offered by other vendors, one glance at OUR work will reflect the disparity between a so-called bargain and true quality.

How does the Layaway option work?

With a 20% non-refundable deposit, you can reserve a slot on our calendar. The remaining balance can be parceled out into six (6) automated monthly payments via PayPal on any item valued at $800 or more. We've lowered our deposit from 40% to 20% to make it more affordable for our clients. Details are included in a contract for your protection.

What's your lead time for commissions?

We are blessed to stay busy! Our calendar is filled at least 8 to 10 months - or more - in advance. It's best to give us NO LESS than 6 months advance notice, but optimally longer! - especially for bridal gowns and highly detailed ensembles. Depending on the intricacy of your gown commission it can take up to 12 to 14 weeks just for construction. Because most of our pieces are highly detailed with custom embroidered fabrics and beading, we need every second! We squeeze accessories and corsets into our gown commission schedule and usually need no less than 3 months advance for those smaller items. It is best to inquire before ordering. We will make every effort possible to assist in your deadline.

Do you ship outside the USA?

We will ship outside the USA - However, because our clothing is customized there will be added shipping expenses. We work off a "body cast" created from Painters Tape and Cellophane wrap which must be created in your era appropriate corset (for women). This cast is shipped to us at the customer's expense. Any customs fees or taxes are the responsibility of the client, as well as any insurance.

I love this gown! - - How much is it?

All of our gowns priced in the listing reflect a specific "style detail" and "level of embellishment." We don't crank out the same gowns over and over and scrimp on quality craftsmanship. Unless specified in the listing details, all the gowns are priced for LABOR ONLY. Fashion fabrics for gowns are provided by the client. We charge by the pattern piece (every piece we physically sew together) rather than hourly, so the MORE details in the gown, the higher the price. If you're on a tight budget, you can order a basic gown without all the extras for about $800 for labor. Rather than compromise on quality of craftsmanship, choose a simplified gown from US rather than go bargain shopping and be disappointed in the quality.

Do you take commissions for 18th and 19th Century as well?

YES! YES! YES! We are well versed in the construction and fitting for other eras, namely 18th Century! Our niche has been 16th Century, but we ABSOLUTELY can create men's and women's ensembles for other eras, to include 1940s Vintage. In fact, we appreciate the divergence as we stay so booked in the 16th Century we don't' have the opportunity to "play" with samples.

Added Value Service for BRIDES!

We have carved out a niche for highly detailed, custom fit/drafted bridal gowns (historical themed). Because this gown is the highlight of your wedding and there are too many HORROR STORIES we hear from our clients who have used other, less reputable (but cheaper) vendors here on Etsy, we offer live, personal fittings anywhere in the United States or Canada. If you wish to avail yourself of this service, we will attach the cost of our flight and hotel to come to YOU! No more guess work. No more disappointments or risk of ordering your gown on line. We will shop for the best flight prices - flying coach - to help keep your costs at a minimum.

I ordered a gown with another vendor and was SO disappointed!

It sickens us, every time we hear the horror stories from clients who initially think they cannot afford one our gowns so they go to another vendor, for what sounds like a bargain, but the gown falls apart because the quality of craftsmanship is so poor. They inevitably come back to us but have now wasted $400 on a so-called "bargain." At DFT, we have built a reputation on SUPERIOR craftsmanship and Customer Service. There is no reason to go bargain hunting elsewhere! Don't let the prices in our store scare you. We can offer a basic gown for around $800. So, pay a little more initially and let US offer you a basic gown made with superior craftsmanship that will last many years. A bargain isn't' a bargain if the craftsmanship is poor!

Are Fabrics Included in your listings?

The majority of our listing prices are for Labor Fees ONLY and requires the client to purchase their fashion fabrics and ship it to us at their expense. We DO all the legwork for you during the consult process - sourcing quality fabrics and trims. Unless the listing specifically states "Retail" or "Fabrics Included" the client should be prepared to add the cost of fabrics to their budget.

Embroidery Labor vs Construction Labor:

Embroidery Labor is separate from Construction Labor. We charge the industry standard for embroidery, which is $1.00 per 1000 stitches. Embroidery patterns vary in their intricacy, color changes, and stitch counts. Patterns that are dense, or have multiple colors, will have higher stitch counts.

Construction Labor is our fee to actually construct your garment. Many times the embroidery labor far exceeds the actual construction time.

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