Renaissance Dress, Elizabethan, Tudor, Italian Doublet, Costume, Bridal Gown - LAY AWAY AVAILABLE
Made to Order: Elizabethan noble women's Italian Doublet gown - custom drafted. Price listed is for labor fees.
DESCRIPTION: Each gown is a one-of-a-kind custom-made couture gown and cannot be duplicated exactly as shown. I will use this piece as inspiration to create a similar gown with your own choice of fabrics and trims. Listing Includes: Custom drafted Italian doublet with pleated medici collar and hand-made piping, shoulder wings, custom embroidered or spiral trimmed detachable one-piece fitted sleeves, hand drafted doublet tabs, split front skirt with cartridge pleats (hand pleated), custom embroidered or embellished forepanel (underskirt).
Fabrics and notions are supplied by client and not included in the list price, so choose your color combination. I will consult with client on appropriate fabrics and guide you to vetted vendors and supply the yardage amounts.
**Non-refundable 20% deposit is required to hold a spot on my calendar. - Please check my availability before ordering. My calendar is often filled out a year in advance so there will be a delay even for gowns paid in full.
*Handkerchief weight linen Maria di Medici Chemise is not included but available here in my store: https://www.etsy.com/listing/289134117/italian-renaissance-authentic-maria-de?ref=shop_home_active_4
Beading & Pearling Fees: Glass beads and authentic freshwater pearls fetch a fee of $50 per strand to apply. This
Gown pictured took 8 strands and took over 80+ hours to hand sew beads and pearls. Beading/pearling fees for each gown is dependent upon the embroidery or trims chosen. AVERAGE gown uses 5 strands and fetches labor fees of approximately $250. YOUR FEES WILL BE DETERMINED BY THE NUMBER OF STRANDS OF PEARLS USED. Please be advised, these fees are non-negotiable. The average fee of $250 for 80 hours of labor breaks down to approximately $3.13 an hour and is a HUGE discount that plunges far beneath the minimum hourly wage of $10 to $15 an hour in the USA! Beading fees, if estimated using the current minimum wage of $10 an hour, would normally fetch a fee of $800, which is nearly the entire cost to construct the gown. Therefore, labor fees for beading and pearling are firm and non-negotiable and will be added to your final billing statement.
APPROX YARDAGE PROVIDED BY CLIENT:
7 yards Silk 58 inches wide (Skirt)
2 yards silk 58 inches wide (Bodice & Upper Sleeve)
2 yards Silk (Lower Sleeve)
1.5 yards Hand made Piping
2 yards Silk (Forepart)
2 yards Cotton Lining (bodice)
2 yards Medium Weight Cotton (Forepart Side panels)
2 yards Silk Velvet or Light Weight Velveteen (Hem guards)
10 to 20 yards Decorative Trims (price depends on type chosen and amount needed)
ADDITIONAL SPECIALIZED NOTIONS SUPPLIED BY DFT (Added to final Statement)
1.5 yards Fusible Batiste Linen (bodice interfacing) ($8)
1/2 yard Pellon 72 wt (Bodice Stomacher Stiffener) ($6)
2 yards Fusible Batiste Linen (forepart stabilizer) ($12)
2 yards quilt batting (forepart) ($8)
1 spool clear beading thread ($3)
1.5 yards Linen - Sleeve lining (14.92)
10 to 12 yards 3 inch grosgrain (cartridge pleat stabilizer) ($12)
6 Lightweight Metal Stays ($12)
3 yards Rigilene Boning Channels ($9)
5 Strands Freshwater Pearls ($60) (Beading fees are $50 per strand)
24 Grommets ($10)
4 skeins Matching Embroidery Floss (To couch grommets) (1.11)
1 spool Embroidery Thread ($6)
2 Spools Cotton/poly blend sewing thread ($4)
4 Large Hooks & Eye (Skirt) ($4)
15 yards Ivory & Gold Ecru Trim ($38
Specialized Supplies: $148.00 plus tax .88.8% = $161.14
Embroidery or Trim Embellishment Labor: $160
Labor & Drafting fees (65 pcs) - $830
Freshwater Pearls: $60
Beading Fees: Regularly $250
$1,461.14 Labor & Specialized Notions
QUALITY STANDARDS: Each Designs From Time ensemble is created to meet my exacting standards, and I am a perfectionist! All my bodices - whether working class or noble - are CUSTOM DRAFTED to fit each individual client. That service alone is a value of $150 for time and materials My bodices are not cookie-cut patterns, nor do I approach my designs with a "one size fits most" concept using a commercial pattern source that you HOPE will fit. Rather than trying to make your body fit into a commercial pattern, I take the time and added effort to custom drape and draft a pattern to fit YOUR unique body. You may find reproduction clothing that is cheaper, but a bargain isn't a bargain if what you're buying is substandard workmanship. My designs are clothing NOT costume. My bodices are among the sturdiest your money can buy. They aren't two pieces of fabric slapped together with grommets that will tear away from the fabric after being worn a few times. I have developed a unique, tried and true method of anchoring my grommets so that they will NOT tear away from your fabrics. In addition, each grommet is also hand-couched using matching embroidery floss that is sealed to prevent fraying and will wear longer. All of my skirts are hemmed by HAND - they are not hemmed by the sewing machine! That, I feel, is a lazy cheat! There are many Couture (hand sewn) features in all of my work. It may take more time, but I take great pride in each piece I make. The quality you see pictured is the quality that you receive. I have one of the best reputations for quality and customer service in the industry. And I stand by my work.
Available in the following sizes Only:
USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . UK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . France
2 (X-Small). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
4 (X-Small/Small) . . . . . . . . . . . 6. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
6 (Small). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
8 (Medium). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
10 (Medium). . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
12 (Large). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
14 (Large-X-Large). . . . . . . . . 16. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
16 (X-Large/1X) . . . . . . . . . . . 18. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
18 (1X/2X). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48/50
20 (2X) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50/52
PLEASE READ! I take (and fill) orders for Frock Coats, Gowns, and Men's Ensembles on a First Come, First Served basis, no matter if paid in full at the time of purchase and regardless of the 9 to 10 week timeline listed for turn-around. Etsy does not provide the 3 - 4 month option that I require for construction.
I am very often booked out 6 to 8 months at a time. Please contact me to check my availability. To be added to my schedule, I require a 40% deposit to hold a spot open. You can visit my website and check my Waiting List Schedule for my next available date. But, my calendar fills up quickly!
Contact me for more details.
*** SHIPPING FEES LISTED ARE APPROXIMATED AND MAY VARY DEPENDING ON WEIGHT AND DISTANCE. AN ADDITIONAL INVOICE WILL BE SENT UPON COMPLETION OF GOWN.
ORDERS ARE FILLED ON A FIRST-COME, FIRST SERVED BASIS. Please be advised that there may be orders ahead of you. Please contact me to check with my availability; especially if you are hoping for your headdress to arrive by a specific date.
** Hand-made items will have slight imperfections.
** No returns or refunds.
I'll do my best to meet these shipping estimates, but can't guarantee them. Actual delivery time will depend on the shipping method you choose.
Buyers are responsible for any customs and import taxes that may apply. I'm not responsible for delays due to customs.
But please contact me if you have any problems with your order.
ALL of our GOWNS are one-of-a-kind couture, and custom drafted to fit your personal measurements! Most vendors on Etsy offer multiples, i.e., cranking out the same gown over, and over; however, we do not repeat the same gown. Rather, we will take a style you like and customize it for your personal tastes using our superior craftsmanship and knowledge for historical clothing and construction. All of the samples you see listed in our store can be personalized. Additionally, all of our accessories (hats, smocks, corsets/stays) are customized to fit your measures as well. While you may find CHEAPER versions of gowns offered by other vendors, one glance at OUR work will reflect the disparity between a so-called bargain and true quality.
With a 20% non-refundable deposit, you can reserve a slot on our calendar. The remaining balance can be parceled out into six (6) automated monthly payments via PayPal on any item valued at $800 or more. We've lowered our deposit from 40% to 20% to make it more affordable for our clients. Details are included in a contract for your protection.
We are blessed to stay busy! Our calendar is filled at least 8 to 10 months - or more - in advance. It's best to give us NO LESS than 6 months advance notice, but optimally longer! - especially for bridal gowns and highly detailed ensembles. Depending on the intricacy of your gown commission it can take up to 12 to 14 weeks just for construction. Because most of our pieces are highly detailed with custom embroidered fabrics and beading, we need every second! We squeeze accessories and corsets into our gown commission schedule and usually need no less than 3 months advance for those smaller items. It is best to inquire before ordering. We will make every effort possible to assist in your deadline.
We will ship outside the USA - However, because our clothing is customized there will be added shipping expenses. We work off a "body cast" created from Painters Tape and Cellophane wrap which must be created in your era appropriate corset (for women). This cast is shipped to us at the customer's expense. Any customs fees or taxes are the responsibility of the client, as well as any insurance.
All of our gowns priced in the listing reflect a specific "style detail" and "level of embellishment." We don't crank out the same gowns over and over and scrimp on quality craftsmanship. Unless specified in the listing details, all the gowns are priced for LABOR ONLY. Fashion fabrics for gowns are provided by the client. We charge by the pattern piece (every piece we physically sew together) rather than hourly, so the MORE details in the gown, the higher the price. If you're on a tight budget, you can order a basic gown without all the extras for about $800 for labor. Rather than compromise on quality of craftsmanship, choose a simplified gown from US rather than go bargain shopping and be disappointed in the quality.
YES! YES! YES! We are well versed in the construction and fitting for other eras, namely 18th Century! Our niche has been 16th Century, but we ABSOLUTELY can create men's and women's ensembles for other eras, to include 1940s Vintage. In fact, we appreciate the divergence as we stay so booked in the 16th Century we don't' have the opportunity to "play" with samples.
We have carved out a niche for highly detailed, custom fit/drafted bridal gowns (historical themed). Because this gown is the highlight of your wedding and there are too many HORROR STORIES we hear from our clients who have used other, less reputable (but cheaper) vendors here on Etsy, we offer live, personal fittings anywhere in the United States or Canada. If you wish to avail yourself of this service, we will attach the cost of our flight and hotel to come to YOU! No more guess work. No more disappointments or risk of ordering your gown on line. We will shop for the best flight prices - flying coach - to help keep your costs at a minimum.
It sickens us, every time we hear the horror stories from clients who initially think they cannot afford one our gowns so they go to another vendor, for what sounds like a bargain, but the gown falls apart because the quality of craftsmanship is so poor. They inevitably come back to us but have now wasted $400 on a so-called "bargain." At DFT, we have built a reputation on SUPERIOR craftsmanship and Customer Service. There is no reason to go bargain hunting elsewhere! Don't let the prices in our store scare you. We can offer a basic gown for around $800. So, pay a little more initially and let US offer you a basic gown made with superior craftsmanship that will last many years. A bargain isn't' a bargain if the craftsmanship is poor!
The majority of our listing prices are for Labor Fees ONLY and requires the client to purchase their fashion fabrics and ship it to us at their expense. We DO all the legwork for you during the consult process - sourcing quality fabrics and trims. Unless the listing specifically states "Retail" or "Fabrics Included" the client should be prepared to add the cost of fabrics to their budget.
Embroidery Labor is separate from Construction Labor. We charge the industry standard for embroidery, which is $1.00 per 1000 stitches. Embroidery patterns vary in their intricacy, color changes, and stitch counts. Patterns that are dense, or have multiple colors, will have higher stitch counts.
Construction Labor is our fee to actually construct your garment. Many times the embroidery labor far exceeds the actual construction time.