3 Piece Elizabethan Kirtle, Renaissance Dress, Custom Drafted (Made To Order) INCLUDES FABRICS
DESCRIPTION: ITEM PICTURED IS FOR SAMPLE PURPOSES ONLY - NOT FOR RETAIL
NOTE: An authentically styled Tudor/Elizabethan kirtle or bodice DOES NOT have side panels in the bodice that conform to a woman's figure. Side panels will not give you the proper silhouette - which is flat and smooth.
Available in this listing is a custom drafted French, Flemmish, English, or Italian styled Elizabethan era kirtle. Your choice of back or front laced, COMES IN LINEN ONLY. Skirt has three panels of 58" wide linen and is knife pleated with side opening with up to two rows of contrasting color linen. If you need larger than a size 22 four panels may be necessary and client is responsible for the additional cost of linen - cost will be based on your height and how many more yards are needed, usually no more than two yards; bodice is custom drafted using an upper body cast provided by the client (tutorial provided) and details one contrasting strip of linen; pinner (detachable sleeves) lined with white linen. Grommets are hand couched in a matching color and treated with fray check. We use a .000 size grommet so that it appears more historically accurate but offers durability. *Wool available but client responsible for the cost difference - See Cost Breakdown below.
COLORS OF LINEN:
MEDIUM WEIGHT: https://fabrics-store.com/all-fabrics?article=IL019 ATTENTION: The green pictured is no longer available. OUT OF STOCK
RUSTIC WEIGHT: (More historically accurate but limited colors): https://fabrics-store.com/all-fabrics?article=4C22
ALLOW 8 TO 10 WEEKS for construction - but you will need to make a reservation on our commission calendar and we stay booked out 6 to 9 months in advance.
- Detachable pinner sleeves
- **Custom drafted bodice to fit your unique figure - NOT A COMMERCIAL PATTERN. Complete with modesty panel and hand-couched grommets. (See Size Chart below).
- Separate knife pleated skirt inset in a waistband with two rows of hand-sewn grosgrain ribbon trim at the bottom.
This is the perfect ensemble for your working class character at faire! Elevate your character at faire and graduate from the ubiquitous wench to an AUTHENTIC styled 16th Century woman. Pair it with an English flat cap and a coif, or a straw hat. (20pcs)
5 yards of Italian Linen $111.71
1 yard contrasting linen $16.77
1 yards Cotton duck for bodice $8.00
Fusible Horse Hair Canvas Interfacing $8.00
Up to 24 Grommets - couched $4.00
Fabrics & Notions; $148.48
Labor for construction: $300.00
**Custom drafted bodice pattern is not shipped to client but is kept on file in my workshop.
If your dress size and skirt length requires more than 5 yards of linen, client is responsible for covering the cost of any additional linen purchased (at a cost of $9.95 per yard) - usually no more than two yards extra is necessary.
GROSS GRAIN TRIMS: All trims are "hand sewn" and take up to 2 to 3 days (about 8 hours a day) for me to attach. Limited to 2 rows at the bottom of the skirt and two rows on the bodice front.
CHEMISE: NOT INCLUDED. White collared chemise available for purchase here in my store:
Add a coif or caul by clicking on the link below:
PLEASE READ! I take (and fill) orders on a First Come, First Served basis, no matter if paid in full at the time of purchase and regardless timeline listed. Please contact me before ordering in order to check my availability. Allow 2 months for construction.
Available in the following sizes Only:
We custom draft our bodices so size isn't necessarily accurate: We work off an upper body cast. Tutorial and more info available.
USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . UK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . France
2 (X-Small). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
4 (X-Small/Small) . . . . . . . . . . . 6. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
6 (Small). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
8 (Medium). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
10 (Medium). . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
12 (Large). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
14 (Large-X-Large). . . . . . . . . 16. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
16 (X-Large/1X) . . . . . . . . . . . 18. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
18 (1X/2X). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48/50
20 (2X) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50/52
HISTORY OF THE KIRTLE: Before the corset (stays) women wore a "Kirtle." Kirtles began as loose garments without a waist seam known as Coetardie, and later changed to tightly fitted supportive garments in the 14th century. During the reign of Henry VIII, kirtles were constructed by attaching a fitted, stayed (boned) bodice with a skirt that was gathered or pleated into the waist seam. The fitted bodice was stiffened with a layer of "buckram" as well as reeds and bents.
During the 1530s, the decorative skirt of the kirtles worn under gowns underwent a change: instead of an entire decorated underkirtle, a separate, decorated "kirtle" skirt could be worn under the outer gown. There are also references in early 16th century Spain of a "vasquina" bodice being tied to a farthingale or stiffened skirt. Kirtles were part of fashionable attire in the middle sixteenth century, and remained part of country, working, or middle-class clothing into the seventeenth century. Later in the 1500s, the bodice and skirt were worn as separates - as shown in this listing. These fitted bodices were the impetus for the invention of the corset.
In England, Kirtles were worn under an overdress for middle-class and nobility, and were commonly made of red silk. Later, when the fitted bodice and underskirt were worn as separates, the "skirt" transformed into "farthingales." Farthingales were stiffened by rings of reeds to give the quintessential cone shape, and worn under the gowns of the upper classes. Kirtles could lace up the front, the back or on the side-back, with some rare cases of side lacing (under the arms); all depending on the fashion of the day and the country one belonged, as well as what kind of gown was to be worn over it.
** Hand-made items will have slight imperfections.
*** No Returns or Exchanges on clothing items, hats, or headdresses.
~ COMMUNICATION: Buyer agrees and acknowledges by the remittance of their 20% Non-Refundable Deposit, or payment in full at the time of purchase, that ALL communication with DFT, hereafter known as Seller, must remain through Etsy in order to abide by Etsy’s policies for Sellers. Buyer further agrees that once their order has been placed with DFT, a.k.a. Seller, Buyer will maintain REGULAR contact with DFT, i.e., including but not limited to, checking their Etsy messages on a regular basis throughout the duration their commission is listed on DFT’s schedule until such time as their commission has been completed, the balance paid, and the item(s) shipped.
~ PROJECT PAUSE FEE: Buyer agrees and acknowledges by the remittance of their 20% Non-refundable deposit, or by their Payment in full at the time of purchase, that should they, Buyer, become non-responsive, i.e., fail to respond to messages on Etsy from DFT, during the time period between the date of placing their order and the date of their scheduled reservation, it shall be left to DFT’s discretion whether or not the Buyer’s project is placed on HOLD, Rescheduled, or Canceled without refunding their non-refundable deposit. Furthermore, should DFT decide to reschedule or place the project on Hold pending the receipt of their fabrics, measurements, or upper body cast, Buyer will be obligated to pay an ADDITIONAL $100 “Project Pause Fee” to Seller, to be paid in advance by Buyer prior to work re-starting on their project. In the event that Buyer has purchased their project without a non-refundable deposit, DFT will NOT reschedule unless or until ALL fabrics (if applicable) have been received, correct measurements sent, and their upper body casts have been received, and an ADDITIONAL $100 “Project Pause Fee” shall be paid in full to DFT prior to work continuing.
~ UPPER BODY CASTS/MOCK-UPS: Buyer agrees and acknowledges by the remittance of their 20% Non-refundable deposit, or their Payment in full at the time of purchase, that they are responsible for creating an upper body cast from cellophane wrap and “Painter’s Tape” (NOT DUCT TAPE), which shall meet ALL the specifications in the instructional video and the PDF handout. Buyer agrees and understands that if their cast is NOT made correctly the fit of their garment CANNOT be guaranteed, and DFT will not be held liable. Furthermore, in the event that a muslin mock-up of the garment is necessary, the Buyer MUST have someone who is knowledgeable in fitting a toile (mock-up). If the mock-up is not correctly fitted, again, DFT, a.k.a. Seller, CANNOT guarantee a correct fit of the finished garment, and shall not be held liable by the Seller.
I'll do my best to meet these shipping estimates, but can't guarantee them. Actual delivery time will depend on the shipping method you choose.
Buyers are responsible for any customs and import taxes that may apply. I'm not responsible for delays due to customs.
But please contact me if you have any problems with your order.
ALL of our GOWNS are one-of-a-kind couture, and custom drafted to fit your personal measurements! Most vendors on Etsy offer multiples, i.e., cranking out the same gown over, and over; however, we do not repeat the same gown. Rather, we will take a style you like and customize it for your personal tastes using our superior craftsmanship and knowledge for historical clothing and construction. All of the samples you see listed in our store can be personalized. Additionally, all of our accessories (hats, smocks, corsets/stays) are customized to fit your measures as well. While you may find CHEAPER versions of gowns offered by other vendors, one glance at OUR work will reflect the disparity between a so-called bargain and true quality.
With a 20% non-refundable deposit, you can reserve a slot on our calendar. The remaining balance can be parceled out into six (6) automated monthly payments via PayPal on any item valued at $800 or more. We've lowered our deposit from 40% to 20% to make it more affordable for our clients. Details are included in a contract for your protection.
We are blessed to stay busy! Our calendar is filled at least 8 to 10 months - or more - in advance. It's best to give us NO LESS than 6 months advance notice, but optimally longer! - especially for bridal gowns and highly detailed ensembles. Depending on the intricacy of your gown commission it can take up to 12 to 14 weeks just for construction. Because most of our pieces are highly detailed with custom embroidered fabrics and beading, we need every second! We squeeze accessories and corsets into our gown commission schedule and usually need no less than 3 months advance for those smaller items. It is best to inquire before ordering. We will make every effort possible to assist in your deadline.
We will ship outside the USA - However, because our clothing is customized there will be added shipping expenses. We work off a "body cast" created from Painters Tape and Cellophane wrap which must be created in your era appropriate corset (for women). This cast is shipped to us at the customer's expense. Any customs fees or taxes are the responsibility of the client, as well as any insurance.
All of our gowns priced in the listing reflect a specific "style detail" and "level of embellishment." We don't crank out the same gowns over and over and scrimp on quality craftsmanship. Unless specified in the listing details, all the gowns are priced for LABOR ONLY. Fashion fabrics for gowns are provided by the client. We charge by the pattern piece (every piece we physically sew together) rather than hourly, so the MORE details in the gown, the higher the price. If you're on a tight budget, you can order a basic gown without all the extras for about $800 for labor. Rather than compromise on quality of craftsmanship, choose a simplified gown from US rather than go bargain shopping and be disappointed in the quality.
YES! YES! YES! We are well versed in the construction and fitting for other eras, namely 18th Century! Our niche has been 16th Century, but we ABSOLUTELY can create men's and women's ensembles for other eras, to include 1940s Vintage. In fact, we appreciate the divergence as we stay so booked in the 16th Century we don't' have the opportunity to "play" with samples.
We have carved out a niche for highly detailed, custom fit/drafted bridal gowns (historical themed). Because this gown is the highlight of your wedding and there are too many HORROR STORIES we hear from our clients who have used other, less reputable (but cheaper) vendors here on Etsy, we offer live, personal fittings anywhere in the United States or Canada. If you wish to avail yourself of this service, we will attach the cost of our flight and hotel to come to YOU! No more guess work. No more disappointments or risk of ordering your gown on line. We will shop for the best flight prices - flying coach - to help keep your costs at a minimum.
It sickens us, every time we hear the horror stories from clients who initially think they cannot afford one our gowns so they go to another vendor, for what sounds like a bargain, but the gown falls apart because the quality of craftsmanship is so poor. They inevitably come back to us but have now wasted $400 on a so-called "bargain." At DFT, we have built a reputation on SUPERIOR craftsmanship and Customer Service. There is no reason to go bargain hunting elsewhere! Don't let the prices in our store scare you. We can offer a basic gown for around $800. So, pay a little more initially and let US offer you a basic gown made with superior craftsmanship that will last many years. A bargain isn't' a bargain if the craftsmanship is poor!
The majority of our listing prices are for Labor Fees ONLY and requires the client to purchase their fashion fabrics and ship it to us at their expense. We DO all the legwork for you during the consult process - sourcing quality fabrics and trims. Unless the listing specifically states "Retail" or "Fabrics Included" the client should be prepared to add the cost of fabrics to their budget.
Embroidery Labor is separate from Construction Labor. We charge the industry standard for embroidery, which is $1.00 per 1000 stitches. Embroidery patterns vary in their intricacy, color changes, and stitch counts. Patterns that are dense, or have multiple colors, will have higher stitch counts.
Construction Labor is our fee to actually construct your garment. Many times the embroidery labor far exceeds the actual construction time.