Women's PLUS SIZED Gown with Spanish Sleeves, Custom Embroidery, Elizabethan, Costume, Bridal Gown, (Made To Order) LABOR FEES
EMBROIDERY PATTERN: I have MANY patterns to choose from. The pattern used in the sample is Copyrighted 2021 ArtEmbroideryDesigns
RECOMMENDED FABRICS: 100% Medium weight cotton Velveteen (www.SyFabrics.com) STAY AWAY FROM UPHOLSTERY FABRICS! - or silk velvet.
DESCRIPTION: GOWN SHOWN IS FOR SAMPLE PURPOSES ONLY. It is listed at the price shown to reflect a specific "style" and level of embellishment rather than to offer an EXACT replica of this gown to the buyer. I do not reproduce the same gown over and over like other vendors, rather I offer one-of-a-kind custom-made couture gowns that cannot be duplicated exactly as shown. Use this gown as inspiration, but your gown will be similar in "style" i.e., tabbed bodice and shoulders, double sleeves (One fitted and one Spanish style), an overskirt pleated with copious and meticulous handmade cartridge pleats, and a forepart. The forepart shown in the sample is NOT included in this price but is available for purchase in my store.
Fees listed are for labor fees ONLY. Client responsible the purchase of all Fabrics and Notions. All embellishments shown in sample (beading, pearls, metallic findings trims) are not included - See cost breakdown below under "Additional" for total cost breakdown.
- Your choice of: Doublet with closed collar and tabs along the bottom and shoulders, or square necked bodice like that shown in the picture.
- Spanish style Oversleeves with hand-made piping and matching lining and your choice of embroidery.
- Embroidered Fitted sleeves (detachable) - limited to one single color.
- 4 to 5 panel skirt, hand cartridge pleated.
- Embroidered Forepart (Embroidery limited to single color, up to 12 patterns scattered over the forepart to match the fitted sleeves)
***MULTICOLORED CUSTOM EMBROIDERED FOREPART PICTURED IS SOLD SEPARATELY HERE: https://www.etsy.com/listing/501316156/forepart-forepanel-custom-embroidered?ref=shop_home_active_4
- HEM GUARDS: Silks or Silk blend fabrics WILL require hem guards: Add $60 to the listed labor fees.
-PEARLS: Pearls used in this design are authentic freshwater cultured pearls, 3 to 4 mm rice Grade A on sleeves and forepanel. 4 to 5 mm on doublet and skirt facings. Approximately 14 strands of pearls were used in the sample gown pictured and approximately 2400 glass beads. Current wholesale price of pearls is approximately $12 per 15.5 to 16 inch strand.
- BEADING: Beading Fees: Glass beads and authentic freshwater pearls fetch a fee of $50 per strand to apply. This gown took 14 strands and 80+ hours to hand sew beads and pearls. Beading/pearling fees for each gown is dependent upon the embroidery or trims chosen. Average gown uses 5 strands and fetches labor fees of approximately $250. These fees are non-negotiable. $250 for 80 hours of labor breaks down to approximately $3.13 an hour and is a HUGE discount that plunges far beneath the minimum hourly wage of $10 to $15 an hour in the USA! Beading fees, if estimated using the current minimum wage of $10 an hour, would normally fetch a fee of $800, which is nearly the entire cost to construct the gown. Therefore, labor fees for beading and pearling are firm and non-negotiable and will be added to your final billing statement.
APPROX YARDAGE PROVIDED BY CLIENT:
7 yards - 55" to 58" inches wide preferably (Skirt)
2 yards - 55" to 58" inches wide preferably (Bodice & Upper Sleeve)
2 yards - 55" to 58" (Fitted Sleeve)
2 yards - 55" to 58"for the Spanish Sleeves
1.5 yards - 55" to 58" to create Hand made Piping
2.5 yards - 55" to 58" (Forepart)
1.5 yard - 55" to 58" (doublet lining)
2 yards - 55" to 58"for Spanish Sleeve Lining.
SPECIALIZED NOTIONS SUPPLIED BY DFT: Included in the listed price
5 yards Fusible cotton interfacing: $45
1 yard fusible Haircanvas: $9
.25 yards of Buckram: $5
6 spools of gold metallic thread ($9 each): $54
10 to 12 yards 3 inch grosgrain (cartridge pleat stabilizer) $5
2 Spools Cotton/poly blend sewing thread: $4
4 Large Hooks & Eye (Skirt): 2.00
5 to 10 boning stays: $5.00
Specialized Supplies: $129
Embroidery Labor: $250
Construction Labor & Drafting fees (65 pcs X per piece fee) - $1,300
$1,829 Labor & Specialized Notions
SIZES AVAILABLE: An upper body cast made from cellophane and painter's tape will be required from each client to draft a custom fit bodice. Tutorial will be provided once your order is placed, as well as a list of measurements you will need to provide in "inches" rather than metrics; therefore, the following sizes are provided only as a way to communicate I can work with multiple sizes, to include plus sizes.
USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . UK
2 (X-Small). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
4 (X-Small/Small) . . . . . . . . . . 6
6 (Small). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
8 (Medium). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
10 (Medium). . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
12 (Large). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
14 (Large-X-Large). . . . . . . . . .16
16 (X-Large/1X) . . . . . . . . . . . .18
18 (1X/2X). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
20 (2X) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
22 (3X) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
NEW REQUIREMENTS FOR CLIENTS: I am consistently booked out 12 to 15+ months at a time. Please contact me to check my availability before ordering. To be added to my schedule, I now require a 30% non-refundable deposit to hold a reservation. Client MUST choose their fabrics THREE months prior to their reservation date to allow for the purchase of swatches and to order fabric. If fabric is not included in your purchase, client will be responsible for their purchase and must be shipped to me and received no LESS than TWO months in advance of your reservation. Upper body cast is required wearing the appropriate corset. Tutorial will be provided for the cast. Cast must be received TWO months in advance of your reservation. If there is a delay on your end, rescheduling is no longer guaranteed, due to abuses of my time and clients ghosting on their reservation and failure to respond to my communication on Etsy. All communication must take place via Etsy in order to comply with their policies. If a client has paid in full at the time of purchase, rather than placed a deposit, and they do not follow the above guidelines or fail to respond to my messages in a timely fashion causing a delay, their order will be placed on a permanent hold until requirements have been met. This includes failure to respond to messages on Etsy, failure to provide any and all measurements necessary at the time reservation is taken and the time period prior to the date work is to commence, failure to comply with time allotment for the purchase and shipment of fabrics. No refunds will be issued. Store credit will be issued only. To be rescheduled, once you have missed your deadlines, clients will be required to pay an additional 30% non-refundable deposit to compensate for my loss. Rescheduling means I have lost income whilst turning away other clients to accommodate your reservation. Please be advised, any client that ghosts on their reservation or causes a delay, and is subsequently cancelled, future reservations with Designs From Time will no longer be accepted.
I take (and fill) orders for gowns, coats, and ensembles on a First Come basis, no matter if paid in full at the time of purchase and regardless of the 9 to 10 week timeline listed for turn-around. Etsy does not provide the 3 - 4 month option that I require for construction of detailed pieces.
**Handmade items will have small imperfections.
**No refunds. All Sales are final.
QUALITY STANDARDS: Each Designs From Time ensemble is created to meet my exacting standards, and I am a perfectionist! All my bodices - whether working class or noble - are CUSTOM DRAFTED to fit each individual client. My bodices are not cookie-cut patterns, nor do I approach my designs with a "one size fits most" concept using a commercial pattern source that you HOPE will fit. Rather than trying to make your body fit into a commercial pattern, I take the time and added effort to custom drape and draft a pattern to fit YOUR unique body. You may find reproduction clothing that is cheaper, but a bargain isn't a bargain if what you're buying is substandard workmanship. My designs are clothing NOT costume. They are among the sturdiest your money can buy. The quality you see pictured is the quality that you receive.
~ COMMUNICATION: Buyer agrees and acknowledges by the remittance of their 30% Non-Refundable Deposit, or payment in full at the time of purchase, that ALL communication with DFT, hereafter known as Seller, must remain through Etsy in order to abide by Etsy’s policies for Sellers. Buyer further agrees that once their order has been placed with DFT, a.k.a. Seller, Buyer will maintain REGULAR contact with DFT, i.e., including but not limited to, checking their Etsy messages on a regular basis throughout the duration their commission is listed on DFT’s schedule until such time as their commission has been completed, the balance paid, and the item(s) shipped.
~ UPPER BODY CASTS/MOCK-UPS: Buyer agrees and acknowledges by the remittance of their 30% Non-refundable deposit, or their Payment in full at the time of purchase, that they are responsible for creating an upper body cast from cellophane wrap and “Painter’s Tape” (NOT DUCT TAPE), which shall meet ALL the specifications in the instructional video and the PDF handout. DO NOT use Duct tape. If you use duct tape, you will be required to create another cast at your expense to include shipping. if client has not complied with these requirements as specified, your reservation can be cancelled, and you will lose your deposit. Duct tape does not render a properly fitted cast as it shrinks once you cut it off. You MUST use painter's tape. Buyer agrees and understands that if their cast is NOT made correctly (to include the specified markings) the fit of their garment CANNOT be guaranteed, and DFT will not be held liable. Furthermore, in the event that a muslin mock-up of the garment is necessary, the Buyer MUST have someone who is knowledgeable in fitting a toile (mock-up). If the mock-up is not correctly fitted, again, DFT, a.k.a. Seller, CANNOT guarantee a correct fit of the finished garment, and the Seller shall not be held liable by the Buyer.
I'll do my best to meet these shipping estimates, but can't guarantee them. Actual delivery time will depend on the shipping method you choose.
Buyers are responsible for any customs and import taxes that may apply. I'm not responsible for delays due to customs.
But please contact me if you have any problems with your order.
ALL of our GOWNS are one-of-a-kind couture, and custom drafted to fit your personal measurements! Most vendors on Etsy offer multiples, i.e., cranking out the same gown over, and over; however, we do not repeat the same gown. Rather, we will take a style you like and customize it for your personal tastes using our superior craftsmanship and knowledge for historical clothing and construction. All of the samples you see listed in our store can be personalized. Additionally, all of our accessories (hats, smocks, corsets/stays) are customized to fit your measures as well. While you may find CHEAPER versions of gowns offered by other vendors, one glance at OUR work will reflect the disparity between a so-called bargain and true quality.
With a 20% non-refundable deposit, you can reserve a slot on our calendar. The remaining balance can be parceled out into six (6) automated monthly payments via PayPal on any item valued at $800 or more. We've lowered our deposit from 40% to 20% to make it more affordable for our clients. Details are included in a contract for your protection.
We are blessed to stay busy! Our calendar is filled at least 8 to 10 months - or more - in advance. It's best to give us NO LESS than 6 months advance notice, but optimally longer! - especially for bridal gowns and highly detailed ensembles. Depending on the intricacy of your gown commission it can take up to 12 to 14 weeks just for construction. Because most of our pieces are highly detailed with custom embroidered fabrics and beading, we need every second! We squeeze accessories and corsets into our gown commission schedule and usually need no less than 3 months advance for those smaller items. It is best to inquire before ordering. We will make every effort possible to assist in your deadline.
We will ship outside the USA - However, because our clothing is customized there will be added shipping expenses. We work off a "body cast" created from Painters Tape and Cellophane wrap which must be created in your era appropriate corset (for women). This cast is shipped to us at the customer's expense. Any customs fees or taxes are the responsibility of the client, as well as any insurance.
All of our gowns priced in the listing reflect a specific "style detail" and "level of embellishment." We don't crank out the same gowns over and over and scrimp on quality craftsmanship. Unless specified in the listing details, all the gowns are priced for LABOR ONLY. Fashion fabrics for gowns are provided by the client. We charge by the pattern piece (every piece we physically sew together) rather than hourly, so the MORE details in the gown, the higher the price. If you're on a tight budget, you can order a basic gown without all the extras for about $800 for labor. Rather than compromise on quality of craftsmanship, choose a simplified gown from US rather than go bargain shopping and be disappointed in the quality.
YES! YES! YES! We are well versed in the construction and fitting for other eras, namely 18th Century! Our niche has been 16th Century, but we ABSOLUTELY can create men's and women's ensembles for other eras, to include 1940s Vintage. In fact, we appreciate the divergence as we stay so booked in the 16th Century we don't' have the opportunity to "play" with samples.
We have carved out a niche for highly detailed, custom fit/drafted bridal gowns (historical themed). Because this gown is the highlight of your wedding and there are too many HORROR STORIES we hear from our clients who have used other, less reputable (but cheaper) vendors here on Etsy, we offer live, personal fittings anywhere in the United States or Canada. If you wish to avail yourself of this service, we will attach the cost of our flight and hotel to come to YOU! No more guess work. No more disappointments or risk of ordering your gown on line. We will shop for the best flight prices - flying coach - to help keep your costs at a minimum.
It sickens us, every time we hear the horror stories from clients who initially think they cannot afford one our gowns so they go to another vendor, for what sounds like a bargain, but the gown falls apart because the quality of craftsmanship is so poor. They inevitably come back to us but have now wasted $400 on a so-called "bargain." At DFT, we have built a reputation on SUPERIOR craftsmanship and Customer Service. There is no reason to go bargain hunting elsewhere! Don't let the prices in our store scare you. We can offer a basic gown for around $800. So, pay a little more initially and let US offer you a basic gown made with superior craftsmanship that will last many years. A bargain isn't' a bargain if the craftsmanship is poor!
The majority of our listing prices are for Labor Fees ONLY and requires the client to purchase their fashion fabrics and ship it to us at their expense. We DO all the legwork for you during the consult process - sourcing quality fabrics and trims. Unless the listing specifically states "Retail" or "Fabrics Included" the client should be prepared to add the cost of fabrics to their budget.
Embroidery Labor is separate from Construction Labor. We charge the industry standard for embroidery, which is $1.00 per 1000 stitches. Embroidery patterns vary in their intricacy, color changes, and stitch counts. Patterns that are dense, or have multiple colors, will have higher stitch counts.
Construction Labor is our fee to actually construct your garment. Many times the embroidery labor far exceeds the actual construction time.